Alas this is possible ! There's a load of reviews on Screwfix of people who have used this transformer with the Ring, Nest and other Doorbells but no mention of mechanical Chime.Anyway, I switched the transformer out to the Byron one, everything works great except for a small buzzing which lasts for about 5 seconds after the bell is pressed and the chime has sounded, sometimes there's a quiet hum when using the mic on the Rin so I suspect the increased load causes noise at the Chime. https://support.ring.com/hc/en-us/articles/360022454432-Wiring-Diagrams-for-Ring-Video-Doorbell-Pro-Setup, select "One Ring Doorbell Pro Straight to Transformer" on the list. After setting up with the ring app and when I pressed the doorbell - both the doorbell and the buzzer sounded and there was image shown on my ring app alerting me someone at the door.However, my problem is when I dismantled the door push (at the front door) and connected the pro 2 - when I pressed the pro 2 - both the doorbell and the buzzer sounded - but no picture - and the ring app said that the device is offline and has not got enough power.I am just wondering if my old door bell cable (only just a thin wire) is not capable to carry enough power from the transformer to the doorbell? You therefore need to make sure that your chime is wired to the Normally-Open terminals (NO), and not the normally closed (you'd probably hear a 'dong-ding' if you wired it this way not a 'ding-dong'). It won't do random ding-dongs in normal operation. So Ring says their video doorbells work with their own DC net-adapter or DC ringtransformer. This image shows my bench testing that proved the concept. One important note is that you'll need to tell your Ring Doorbell that it is connected to a mechanical chime. It's 1 but shipping is about 4. This arrangement uses a 24V AC relay doing essentially the same job that an old-fashioned push-button doorbell does - completing the circuit for the mechanical chime thus making it "ding" (when the circuit opens again, this is when the chime goes "dong"). Question You'll notice, however, that there is a connector in there and you haven't been supplied with the cable to fit it. I will have to give some thought to this problem. Did you make this project? Hopefully there's enough information here to help you create your own installation. When the Ring is idle, there's no sound at the Chime though.I'm wanting to perfect the set-up and follow this guide but I can't find a Ring branded transformer online, can I use a Byron transformer (wired to 24v) as seen in the link above instead of the official Ring one and then a second same Byron Transformer (wired to 8v) for the step down for the Chime?In the current set-up I've not used the PPKv2 as I only got the Bypass Kit and wasn't keen on butchering it. i have just one question/ instead of the DPDT you had in your wiring was a DPDT relay. This is neither ideal nor sensible and could create a fire hazard. PLease let me know when you find a 24V transformer with the correct VA. Hi LenI found a transformer with 24 vac and 15 w which should give 0.625 A - https://www.knxshoponline.co.uk/trm-24-transformerwhich is sufficient as I connected them all up and connected the Pro 2 doorbell at the transformer (I wanted to do this first before dismantling the old door push at the front door) - they all worked. So A1 & A2 are connected to the ring doorbell while the 1 & 2 are connected to the 8V transformer that drives the mechanical chimes. I'd say this is a pretty big box and I'm sure there are other neater options out there. There are new players in the market and we may need to update our equipment as spares will be No Longer be Available (NLA). Most require an 8V power supply coming from an appropriately rated transformer. Share it with us! I suggest that you try this avenue first before considering using an inverter. If there were to be some sort of issue, with the enclosure, everything is easily accessible so would be straightforward to swap. Just to confirm - is the Ring transformer that you obtained from Ring the AUBT1-24 (see attached image), Reply The Ring Video Doorbell Pro requires a constant power supply of 24V and this is supplied from a transformer which is included in the box. All is getting complicated.I ordered my Finder relay on the 4th Sept and got delivered on the 9th Sept - total cost including postage 19.66Chi. Luckily, my garage adjoins the main house and is just on the other side of the wall to where I mounted the chime. Unfortunately for those of us in the UK, you'd be hard pressed to find a chime that would work on this rating. Could I substitute it withSPST NO Finder 22.21.8.024.4000 Monostable Modular Relay SPST-NO 24VAC 20AThis relay spec asas used byTim Reczek has a max current rating of 20 Amps. Why is this?Could a "balanced" vs non-balanced ringtransformer be the difference causing this discrepancy? The relay sits in-between the 24V circuit for the Ring Video Doorbell Pro, and the 8V circuit for the mechanical chime, and this means you don't over-power the chime, or under-power the Ring Video Doorbell. It was only supposed to be temporary but I've never got round to changing it.I kept everything the same initially but just changed the doorbell button to the Ring Pro and everything worked fine except that there was a loud buzzing at the Chime.I bought a Byron Transformer to replace the Friedland butchered jobby (https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-fortres and wired it up as 24v. Looks like I have it the wrong way round. Ring, fully aware of this issue, simply suggest you remove or 'bypass' your mechanical chime completely, removing it from your doorbell arrangement. It is all done in real time. The relay arrived 6 weeks later supplied by Rapid Electronics UK ! Will it work if the operating current is around 3 to 4 amps as my bell circuit was originally wired from a lighting circuit spur that can take up to 6 Amps maxlscooby, Reply Nevertheless, some people have gone for it anyway, connected their mechanical chimes to the 24V transformer, and found their chimes get hot and emit a constant buzzing/humming noise and at the same time, found they have increased by a few decibels. Rapid Electronics UK did not have it in stock. Also it is not only the voltage (24V), I think the Ring doorbell pro 2 requires 20 VA (while most 24V transformer in the Uk only has 8 VA). They do not use the relay in their wiring diagrams to control 2 more voltage circuits from a 240V set up :1) a step down transformer 24Vac and 2) step down 8Vac. The switching is done when the doorbell pulls enough current to energise the coil, thus pulling the switch closed. I've been using a Byron 772 chime (without a built in transformer). Both of these were installed just after Christmas 2019 and have been working flawlessly since - no issues whatsoever. I've called support and they just sent me the wiring diagram for the ring pro. Plug-In Adapter features a 6m cable and comes with cable clips. I hope your Ring doorbell did not sustain any damage. I guess it's not worth their while. In its unaltered form this provides a level of protection for the doorbell itself. this info is on the 2nd Gen power supply in tiny print. This meant I could put all the bits and pieces in the garage, out of sight. US doorbells can easily cope with this sort of power and can therefore be powered from the same transformer, as described in the official Ring wiring diagrams. Please let me know if my wiring set up now works your doorbell Did you have any response if any when you followed the wiring diagram supplied by Finder? I now need to see how I can use a DC output to drive the relay which in turn drives a 8v chime (which is a Friedland under dome buzzer) . All Ring Video Doorbell Pro's, supplied in the UK, come with a 'Bypass' kit. The (8v) transformer next to the CU is one I butchered out of an old Friedland Doorbell when I was renovating. I just needed to run one cable to the chime and one cable to the doorbell, back to the central location in the garage. There is a slight delay between the ring door bell and the chime being activated..Please let me know if your project works, Hi Len, thank you very much. I ordered it from Mercateo East England 4421 working from Germany. Luckily there is a way of getting your Ring Video Doorbell Pro to chime a mechanical 'ding-dong' while both are being supplied with the power they want and need. Reply https://en-uk.ring.com/collections/accessories/pro At the time of writing this instructable, it wasn't possible to buy these. Hi ChiIt appears Ring are racing ahead to make the previous generation of Ring products obsolete. Thanks for the data sheet from Finder The data sheet diagrams provided by Finder do not apply to the Ring doorbell. It was a sealed unit that I could not use to implement my circuit setup. I think this is a mistake. My recommendation is to phone Ring and ask them to send you the 'wire' for the PPK as you won't be bypassing your mechanical chime. 8 months ago. and the work you have put in that saved me lots of grief. For the relay, you need to make sure that the coil is being powered by the 24V AC. !Luckily I retained my original doorbell circuit and 8v transformer and was able to reconnected it to the Friedland chime 963 York and relocate the Ring doorbell to work as a camera.Please let me know how quickly you got your Finder unit from Rapid and the price you paid.Len, Hi Len, I see. There is an AC plug-in power adapter here. When you do this, it basically tells the doorbell to pull a big lump of current (about 1 Amp), and then release the current and this is what energises the coil in the chime making the hammer move and strike the metal bars (the ding, and then the dong). While this is a very straight-forward task in the US with their powerful rugged doorbells, over here in Blighty, our doorbells tend to work on a lower (and so much more respectable) voltage. your experience will help if you have modified the circuit or have you reverted to the circuit shown by dancase ? I'm based in the UK and like many other people out there, I have searched and searched for a way to get a Ring Video Doorbell to chime a good old fashioned mechanical 'ding-dong'. Somehow I got confused with the wiring diagram from Finder datasheet. How can I connect the ring directly to a transformer? I mentioned that there's a way of having both the Ring Doorbell Pro and the mechanical chime being supplied with the power they respectively need AND having the doorbell make your mechanical chime go "ding-dong". You can also hardwired your doorbell if you have a compatible doorbell system (16-24 VAC, 10-40VA, 50/60Hz ), or you can use Ring DIN Rail Transformer 2nd Gen (24VDC, 0.42A , 10.0W) sold separately. This sub is run by the community and has no affiliation with Ring.com or its products. Conversely, some people have used the 16V option on the supplied transformer as this reduces (but doesn't eliminate), the buzzing/humming to more bearable levels. Instead, they supply a plug-in digital chime, and again this is supplied in the box (https://support.ring.com/hc/en-gb/articles/209622213-Video-Doorbell-Pro-Information). equipment for your door bell as your equipment was set up using AC. There's no difference to the PPK you already have (but now you have a spare!). A community space for discussion about all things Ring. Ring need to verify that you are a genuine Ring customer. Would this alone just solve the humming issue without the need to change anything else? That said, I haven't had to do any maintenance just yet. The actual enclosure is shown in these images. Chi, Hi ChiI apologise for not responding to your request earlier. The termination with spade connectors identifies the polarity Red (+ve )and Black (-ve)The transformer I used and supplied by Ring has terminations that allow connections to be made for -8V,-12V, &-24 VYou will need to contact Ring Community Support to help you out. Thanks for this wonderful site. Only make use of Ring DC net-adapter or DC ringtransformer. I've seen some people not using this in their installation as some people have found that their doorbells are less likely to cut-out if you leave this out. Or. This is found in the device settings in the Ring app. Ring will require the MAC address of the equipment you purchased which can be found on the box. "Anyway, my old "dumb" doorbell has always worked fine. HOWEVER, we don't want to use this in 'Bypass' mode because we're not bypassing anything. We're creating an installation that mimics that of the U.S. set-up. This might have been a better option anyway as each installation is different, with power in different locations and chime/doorbells at different proximities to each other. One thing worth noting is that my whole system is powered from a spur to a nearby plug socket. But never to use 3rd party DC ringtransformers. 1) you can call Ring and ask them to send you the cable for the PPK V2 (as you won't be using the 'Bypass' mode). 9 months ago, Did you manage to get the AUBT1-24v. In the meantime, if you have a DC power supply, you will need to replace it with the Plug-in Adapter V1, with provides the correct AC power. Hello!I have a Ring video doorbell Wired.According to Ring it needsWired (16-24 VAC, 10-40 VA, 50/60 Hz), or Ring's own DIN-rail-transformer (2nd gen, 24 V DC, 0,42 A, 10 W) gebruiken (apart verkrijgbaar). My pro power kit v3 does not have an internal bypass like the ring power kit v2 has so I can't figure out how to correctly wire this thing. These wiring diagrams show two different options and which one you use depends on whether your chime has a built in transformer (like the Byron 776), or is powered by an external transformer (like the Honeywell D126). This is completely normal and to be expected. You dont need the pro power kit anymore, just wire it direct to transformer. The issue with this is that it can cause your doorbell to cut out during power heavy tasks such as at night with night-vision on, using Live View, 2-way voice comms, etc. As the title says I have a ring pro 2 that came with a ring pro power kit v3. 10 months ago, Hi LenI am also trying to use the Finder relay https://www.rapidonline.com/Finder-22-21-8-024-400Did you manage to get it to work ?Am I right to connect 1 & 2 to the 24v transformer and the Ring doorbell and A1 & A2 to the 8v transformer and the mechanical door bell ?Thank you very much for your help.Chi, Hi ChiPlease study the attached diagram ;a modified diagram from Tim Reczek, ci to explain my connections. In either of these cases the wiring is essentially the same but you will need to check the specific requirements in your own chime. You are using the 24V to control the 8V circuit. Upon seeing my new doorbell, my neighbour asked me to do the same with theirs. transformer from any source?You may have to get hold of a substitute to power the 24V Finder relay .Try RS, Mercateao, Rapid or similar large Electrical Component supplier. This will allow you to replicate this set-up (DIN rail power supply no longer included - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plug-Adapter-Ring-Video-D PPK V2 - https://en-uk.ring.com/collections/accessories/products/pro-power-kit-video-doorbell-pro. Plugs into standard indoor electrical socket. Hardwired. which ring doorbell do you have - I understand Ring Door Bell Pro (1st generation) comes with a 24V AC transformer while the Ring Door Bell Pro (2nd generation) comes with a 24v DC transformer. *******************************************************, Please note that this method only works with AC power right now, I will update if/when I find a solution for doorbells using DC power. In the UK, these arrive in the box with a sticker showing you how to insert the cables into the 'bypass' connector. it as suggested by Ring. They were very helpful when I requested an AC transformer having explained my problem . 2nd Gen takes 100/240 V AC and outputs 24V DC 0.5 A and 12W of power with efficiency level VII did not use this one and hence unable to help. However you can contact Ring directly. there is also an inset diagram which explains the internal circuit of the Finder relayA1& A2 should be connected to be in the the 24V circuit (hence the need for the 24V Finder Relay ) & connected in parallel with the Ring Pro Power Kit .When the Ring doorbell circuit is activated by pressing the button ; A1 & A2 activate the internal Finder coil which then becomes a magnet (electromagnetic switch) that connects 1 and 2 in the 8V mechanical bell circuit to chime. Hi ChiHave you had success in getting your buzzer working with the Finder relay in the circuit diagram I sent you?A colleague has had problems with the Finder relay. you will need to contact dancase I would be interested as to how someone has implemented a solution to use the 2nd Gen equipment to handle the 8v AC ChimeIf you give me your email address I will send you photos of the transformer I used. So we need to use this 'Bypass', not as a bypass, but in its other mode of operation - the 'Power Pro Kit'. Please follow Ring's safety precautions and seek professional advice if you are not sure. Hi Lenthank you for the reply.Is the transformer you used a Ring transformer - is it a 24V AC ? 7 months ago. I needed to explain my wiring set up using a similar set up to Tim. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. I went for this layout because it suited my specific needs - I wanted to keep the installation as neat as possible, having everything hidden away unless absolutely necessary. I purchased my equipment from Amazon who sent me a transformer with a built in UK plug. Hi ChiThere are 2 versions of the ring doorbell Pro2 sold by Amazon today can you identify which one you are usingPlug-inhttps://www.amazon.co.uk/ring-video-doorbell-pro-2https://www.amazon.co.uk/ring-video-doorbell-pro-2-with-plug-in-adapter/dp/B086QKXW1M/ref=sr_1_9?crid=13XABGJV1IF7L&dchild=1&keywords=ring%2Bdoorbell&qid=1633977659&qsid=259-3678843-4570723&s=amazon-devices&sprefix=Ring%2Camazon-devices%2C180&sr=1-9&sres=B0931VRJT5%2CB08LR3G17D%2CB0931VYGQJ%2CB08NY19G4C%2CB07ZZV6WY8%2CB085VRRHD9%2CB086QLM9BV%2CB08RMNH5Y3%2CB08RMR4FLL%2CB08RN6HZZS%2CB07PGBS517%2CB0864NTHM1%2CB087Q2MD5N%2CB08MVVQX28%2CB07DLT85R2%2CB07WGJ9JGP%2CB07Q4R7VWN%2CB07Q769MFM%2CB08F6HMZ7C%2CB0765GDW9S&th=1Hard wired I cannot comment on the wire you are using unless you send me the wiring diagrams of the pre existing set up and the new one you installed with the Ring doorbell PRO 2It appears you may need more current to drive the camera.I have found 2 transformers on Amazon which although wider fit on a DIN rail.https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vemer-VN319000-Transforme30VAhttps://www.amazon.co.uk/VN31900010-Transformer-Co24VA, I am using the one with the transformer (not with plug in adapter) - but we cannot use the Ring supplied transformer as it is a DC transformer and it won't work with the AC relay arrangement designed by Dancase.Good find - they both seem to have the same 30VA - but different prices - where did you see it said 24VA ?My wiring is very simple but the bell wire is very thin ..- so may be the resistance is too high when I used a 3 core cable (5 metres long) to connect the ring doorbell to the transformer - I had no problems of getting sound and images on the Ring app.The Ring app registered a voltage of 27 volts (instead of 24 volts) - presumably because the input voltage is higher than the 240 volts The doorbell was quite hot - probably because the voltage is higher than 24 volts I am thinking of buying the 1st generation Ring plug in adapter (as its output is in AC - so I can make it work with the AC relay ) which is compatible with Pro 2 (as per Ring)https://en-uk.ring.com/collections/accessories/proand then perhaps - I can try one of the transformers that you found and then last resort - probably is to replace the bell wire - but I have not checked if this is feasible - as the wire is run below the floorboard and behind plaster (and I am not sure if it is run through a conduit .)But I can say that the relay did work .RegardsChi.