As a clay, it's absorbent and can suck up excess sebum and gunk from your skin, but less so than the more aggressive bentonite. The common plastic molecule that is used as a white wax to give hardness and slip to the formulas. It has been the most incredible experience getting to work on these products from start to finish and seeing you all love them as much as I do has been such a full-circle moment. It is particularly common in cleansing balms and stick-type makeup products due to its ability to add body, hardness and slip to these formulas. Castor oil is sourced from the castor bean plant native to tropical areas in Eastern Africa and the Mediterranean Basin. It contains lots of chemicals, including flavonoids,phenolic acids, and diterpenes. It thickens up water-free formulas, increases hardness and raises the meltingpoint ofemulsions and water-less balms. Mother Nature created triglycerides to be easily hydrolyzed (bebroken down to a glycerin + 3 fatty acid molecules) and oxidized (the fatty acid is broken down into small parts) - this happens basically when we eat fats or oils and our body generates energy from it. What other questions do you have as it relates to the brand launch? It comes from coconut oil and glycerin, its light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. It's a white pigment with great color consistency and dispersibility. A very common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. All the shades are so beautiful! There is a full team in place here, and it's not just Courtney's brand. It has also anti-bacterial, astringent and toning properties. A super common colorant with the color yellow. Like crazy stable. In its wax-form, it is still well, alive and pretty popular. During the event in New York City, I had the pleasure of speaking with Dani Lefland, VP of Strategy and Operations for Courtney Shields Enterprises, as well as Audrey Messer, Director of Branding & Social for Courtney Shields Enterprises. This duo between influencer and someone who can handle the behind the scenes and build a business seems to be a match made in heaven. Even if you heat it to 370 C (698 F) for 96 hours, it does notbudge. My biggest tip there is if you use all over the body, make sure you're freshly showered and clean because you don't want to use the stick on sweaty skin and then later apply it to the face (those breakouts don't play!) A real multi-tasker. We have some more info about this at castor oil, so if you are interested, read on here. Layer and stack for endless possibilities. It makes the skin feel nice and smooth and works in a wide range of formulas. Second, jojoba oil is the most similar to human sebum (both being wax esters), and the two are completely miscible. The TL; DR version of HA is that it's a huge polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) found in the skin that acts as a sponge helping the skin to hold onto water, being plump and elastic. There is also some research showing that citric acid with regular use (think three monthsand 20% concentration) can help sun-damaged skin, increase skin thickness and some nice hydrating things called glycosaminoglycans in the skin. But being versatile means that polyethylene does not only come as scrub particles but also as a white wax. It comes from the seeds of African Shea or KariteTreesand used as a magic moisturizer and emollient. A type of clay that's a fine, white powder and is used for its oil-absorbing and opacifying properties. Empowering Others Through the Art of Makeup. Pro Matte Foundation | Review & Comparison, A Neutral Lover's Dream | Patrick Ta Major Dimension Eyeshadow Palette Review. It also has some unique moisturizing properties as it is bothocclusive and humectant. A super versatile and common mineral powder that comes in different particle sizes. So being a wax ester results in a couple of unique properties: First, jojoba oil is extremely stable. Eyes? If you are looking for rich emollient benefits + more, shea is hard to beat. I along with my co-founder Jeff Lee, launched DIBS Beauty in 2020! They were both V excited for this brand launch in particular, and they mentioned this has been in the works for over a year. Well done by Obama. Its a synthetic lemon yellow that'sused alone or mixed with other colors for special shades. Eyeshadow Palettes: COMING SOON to dibsbeauty.com. Please try again later! Ci 77891 is the color code of titaniumdioxide. It also forms a protective barrier on the skin and fills in fine lines. As an example, it mentions that Ci 19140may cause itching and hives in some people but the colorant is always labeled so that you can avoid it if youare sensitive. Each duo amps up your features so you can feel good instantly. We don't have description for this ingredient yet. :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! Polyethylene is the most common plastic in the world. Status Stick: Shimmer and shine from head-to-toe. A so-called dispersant or dispersing agent that's used in inorganic (titanium dioxide/zinc oxidebased) sunscreens or in make-up products to help to distribute the pigments nicely and evenly on the skin. This award-winning, oversized highlighting stick for face and body adds a skin-enhancing sheen anywhere you want it. Layer and stack for endless possibilities. Mixes well with all the shades with the idea being you use these all over the face and mix and match the various duos, Mango Seed Butter makes the formulation super hydrating and gives a beautiful glow, Sodium Hyaluronate acts as hyaluronic acid and holds 1000 times its weight in water, The antioxidant blend works to interrupt environmental oxidation, Made to be inclusive of a wide variety of skin tones (this was really important to CS), Mixes well with all the shades with the idea being you use these all over the face and mix and match, Can be used all over the body (not just the face) and their team was using it all over their arms and legs, Beautiful vanilla scent to it and come to find vanilla is an aphrodisiac which we love, Comes with Mango Seed Butter again which makes the formula super hydrating, Skin Boosting Blend includes Shea Butter, Avocado Oil, and Jojoba Oil which really makes this formulation not tug or pull at the skin as you apply; it's a very seamless luscious formulation. No wonder its popular. Gloss Topper : Get a plump, yummy look and a major dose of hydration with this high-shine gloss. Some version of it is a pH-sensitive dye that enables a colorless lip balm to turn red/pink upon application. A very common silicone that gives both skin and hair a silky smooth feel. It's a white pigment with great color consistency and dispersibility. Wax esters are on the outer surface of several plant leaves to give them environmental protection. On balance, the point is this: in contrast to real plant oils, wax esters were designed by Mother Nature to stay on the surface and forma protective, moisturizing barrier and jojoba oil being a wax ester is uniquely excellent at doing that. Similar to many other plant oils, it's a great moisturizing and nourishing emollient oil. It's known and grown for jojoba oil, the golden yellow liquid coming from the seeds (about 50% of the weight of the seeds will be oil). At first glance, it seems like your average emollient plant oil: it looks like an oil and it's nourishing and moisturizing to the skin but if we dig a bit deeper, it turns out that jojoba oil is really special and unique: technically - or rather chemically - it's not an oil but awax ester (and calling it an oil is kind of sloppy). Depending on your hair type, it can bea bit difficult to wash out and might cause some build-up (btw, this is not true to all silicones, only the non-volatile types). The fatty acids attached to the glycerin vary and thus we have many kinds of oils, but they are alltriglycerides. Sure she's the face, but there are a lot of incredible minds that have come together to bring this to life. Required fields are marked *. Getting a bronzer and blush for $32 is a great value. It's a great moisturizing and nourishing emollient oil that's loaded with skin goodies like essential amino acids, antioxidant phenolic compounds, and fatty acids. It's all up to you and how you prefer to do your makeup. We do a Best of INCIDecoder email once a month with the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into. First, it is thicker than other oils, then its solubility is different (e.g. Jojoba is a drought resistant evergreen shrub native to South-western North America. Its main active is rosmarinic acid, a potent antioxidant, andanti-inflammatory. When it comes to building a brand, it is so much more than just collaboration with an existing brand. A dispersing agent that's used in inorganic (titanium dioxide/zinc oxidebased) sunscreens or in make-up products to help to distribute the pigments nicely and evenly on the skin. Also, works well to fill in fine lines and wrinkles and give skin a plump look (of course that is only temporary, but still, it'snice). Its also used as a helper ingredient to thicken up productsorsuspendinsoluble particles. Cheeks? It always feel like summer with theDIBS Beauty Desert Island Duo Blush and Bronzer Sticks. So what the heck is a wax ester and why is that important anyway? FDA saysit's possible, but rare, to have an allergic-type reaction to a color additive. Unlike other fatty acids, ricinoleic acid has an extra water-loving part (aka -OH group) on its fatty chain that gives Castor Oil several unique properties. 25-30% of human sebum is also wax esters to give uspeople environmental protection. with many uses including as a shoe polish, food additive and motor lubricant. You would be reasonable to think that putting shoe polish on your face wouldnt be the best idea, but it turns out castor oil has some unique properties that make it a stalwart in thick and gloss-giving formulas (think lipsticks and highlighters). That same glow you get on a beauty island vacation. The oil or butter coming from the kernel of the Mango. An emollient ester (oily liquid from IsostearylAlcohol + Isostearic Acid) that gives excellent slip, lubricity andluxurious softness on skin. It helps to soften scars and increase their elasticity. Some version of it is a pH-sensitive dye that enables a colorless lip balm to turn red/pink upon application. The co-founder of the brand, Courtney Shields, is a long time influencer and beauty maven. It is usually used as a helper ingredient to adjust the pH of the formula. Gorgeous shades! xoxo An AHA that comes from citrus fruits. Unless you live under a rock you must have heard about shea butter. All Rights Reserved. If these magic three letters dont tell you anything, click here and read our detailed description on glycolic acid, the most famous AHA. dissolves in alcohol but not in mineral oil), and it allows all kindsof chemical modificationsother oils do not, hence the lots ofCastor oil-derived ingredients. Your email address will not be published. It used to be used as microbeads as well but was banned in 2015 due to environmental reasons. Chemically, a wax ester is a fatty acid + a fatty alcohol, one long molecule. His resume is long and very impressive including being a business operator, attorney, MBA and digital expert who has built and overseen leading brands across beauty, entertainment, sports and media in the U.S., China and Europe. The triois invaluable for "skin-colored" makeup products (think your foundation and pressed powder) as blendingthese three shades carefully can produce almost any shade of natural-looking flesh tones. It's the salt form of famous humectant and natural moisturizing factor, hyaluronic acid. It is also soothing and rich in antioxidants. There are also scar treatment gels out there using dimethicone as their base ingredient. The leaves contain a small amount of essential oil (1-2%) with fragrant components, so if you are allergic to fragrance, it might be better to avoid it. Titanium dioxide as a colorant. Your email address will not be published. A mix of red, yellow and black iron oxide. An emollient ester that gives excellent slip andluxurious softness on skin. Its the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF,hyaluronic acid(HA). The latter one, the humectant property,issurprising and comes from the unique property ofricinoleic acid (the dominant fatty acid in castor oil) having an extra water-loving -OH group on its otherwise oil-loving fatty chain. Comes from coconut oil and glycerin, its light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. We dont care and neither should you. It's also popular in makeup products to disperse pigments nicely and evenly. A clear, slightly yellow, odorless oil that's a very common, medium-spreadingemollient. The extract coming from the lovely herb, rosemary. All our products are multi-use, blendable, and buildable. A white powdery thing that can mattify the skin and thicken up cosmetic products. FAVORITE BRANDSCharlotte TilburyDiorELFL'OralMACMaybellineMilaniNARSToo FacedWet n Wild, DIBS Beauty Desert Island Duo Blush and Bronzer Stick, on Channeling Summer with the DIBS Beauty Desert IslandDuo, View makeup_by_makenas profile on Instagram, View makeup_by_makenas profile on Pinterest, Channeling Summer with the DIBS Beauty Desert IslandDuo, First Impressions: Charlotte Tilbury Beautiful Skin Foundation VS Nars Light Reflecting Foundation, LOreal Infallible Pro Glow vs. It is a multi-tasker used to improve skin feel, increase product slip, give the product light-reflecting properties, enhance skin adhesion or serve as an anti-caking agent. It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer. with many uses including as a shoe polish, food additive and motor lubricant. A super common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. The soft solid, off-white to ivory butter or oil coming from the kernel (the seed inside of the seed) of the Mango. If you have some pure jojoba oil at home, you should be fine using it for years. Mango Seed Oil, Mango Seed Butter;Mangifera Indica Seed Oil, Red 28, Red 27, Red 27 Lake, Red 28 Lake, Acid Red 92 Phloxine;Ci 45410. While it is very unlikely (and this is true for pretty much every ingredient), cases of reactions to castor oil have been reported, so if your skin is sensitive, it never hurts to patch test. Formulated without Parabens, Sulfates, Phthalates, and many more. It is a polymer (created from repeating subunits) molecule and has different molecular weight and thus different viscosity versions from water-light to thickliquid. The goal for DIBS Beauty is to be your everyday essentials, the products you cant live without, and you cant mess up. A chemically modified version of castor oil that results in a solid, waxy material that serves as an emollient and consistency building material. Well, to understand what a wax ester is, you first have to know that oils are chemically triglycerides:one glycerin + three fatty acids attached to it. Ooo those are really petty! In this case, mica is coated with one or moremetal oxides (most commonly titanium dioxide) to achieve pearl effect via the physical phenomenon known as interference. Ci 19140 or Tartrazine is a super common colorant in skincare, makeup, medicine & food. It is so white that it's also often used, in small amounts, as a helper ingredient to give opacity and whiteness to the cosmetic formulas. When you hear clay, you probably think of a muddy greenish-blackmess, but that one is bentonite, and this one is a fine, white powder. An error has occurred. Castor oil is sourced from the castor bean plant native to tropical areas in Eastern Africa and the Mediterranean Basin. I cannot believe that DIBS Beauty has been awarded the Holy Grail Lipliner of 2022 by Cosmo. (Many plant oils tend to go off pretty quickly). As it's less absorbent, it's also less drying and gentler on the skin, so it's ideal for dry and sensitive skin types. It's probably the most hyped up natural butter in skincare today. Third, jojoba oil moisturizes the skin through a unique dual action:on the one hand, it mixes with sebum and forms a thin, non-greasy, semi-occlusive layer; on the other hand, it absorbs into the skin through pores and hair follicles thendiffuses into the intercellular spaces of the outer layer of the skin to make it soft and supple. A chemically modified version of castor oil that results in a solid, waxy material that serves as an emollient and consistency building material. In spite of this, if you search for "hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate" you will find on multiple places that sodium hyaluronate is smaller and can penetrate the skin better. Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Acne.org has this not fully proven theory, Read all the geeky details about Tocopherol here >>, Primary fat-soluble antioxidant in our skin, Significant photoprotection against UVB rays, Vit C + Vit E work in synergy and provide great photoprotection, Easy to formulate, stable and relatively inexpensive. It is alsomore glossy than other oils, in fact,itcreates the highest gloss of all natural oils when applied to the skin. Kaolin is a type of clayor to be precise, a naturally occurring hydrous aluminum silicate. Probably thats why citric acid is usually not used as an exfoliant but more as a helper ingredient in small amounts to adjust the pH of a formulation. An often used emollient with a light and silky feel. In this episode, I sit down with Colleen Gordon to chat about her career as a Social Media Manager and building a supportive community. It also has some unique moisturizing properties as it is bothocclusive and humectant. Jojoba oil - a wax ester (chemically not a real oil), that's very similar to human sebum. As for skincare, it makes the skin silky smooth, creates a subtle gloss and forms a protective barrier (aka occlusive). Bronzer? Winner of the 2022 HollywoodLife Beauty Awards. Lovely A white powdery thing that's the major component of glass and sand. It's also claimed to increase the UV absorption of the sunscreen formula as well as to reduce the annoying white cast left behind by inorganic sunscreens. Pure Vitamin E. Great antioxidant that gives significant photoprotection against UVB rays. Let's Chat About Building a Supportive Community with Colleen Gordon. It is also the most commonly used "base" material for layered composite pigments such as pearl-effect pigments. http://www.mynameislovely.com, on The Guide to Dibs Beauty by Courtney Shields. It's often used in sunscreens as it's also an excellent solvent for sunscreen agents. Last week during New York Fashion Week (NYFW) I attended an event for Dibs Beauty, which stands for Desert Island Beauty Status. As cosmetic chemist kindofstephenwrites on reddit "sodium hyaluronate disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in solution". It is a super versatile polymer (molecule from repeated subunits) and when it comes to cosmetics, it is often referred to as microbeads. The idea behind the brand is to make makeup simpler, more hydrating but also give you that bronzed goddess glow. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); DIBS won a cosmo holy grail award for 2022 & we are so excited. The connection Courtney and Jeff had upon meeting seemed to be perfect timing and their personalities and goals synced up. The former one is common for oils and waxes and it means that it sits on top of the skin hindering water to evaporate out of the top layers. However Courtney also has had a lot of practice with launch days, co-creating something unique with brands in the past and bringing it to life for her audience so this is definitely not her first rodeo. I love the colors and Ive really been loving cream formulas as of late! Its a nice ingredient that just feels good on the skin, is super well tolerated by every skin type andeasy to formulate with. Same goes for the status stick because it can be used on the face but also all over the body. All in all, a skin goodie especially for dry skin types. Works in synergy with Vitamin C. Rosemary leaf extract - Its main active is rosmarinic acid, a potent antioxidant, andanti-inflammatory. Sounds like a great brand! Also used for scar treatment. In addition to the swatches in this post, down below I embedded my TikTok video which includes video of the swatches, so you can see the unfiltered look at all the colors in video format too. A cosmetic colorant used as a reddish pigment. Chemically, this is definitely not true, as the two forms are almost the same, both are polymers and the subunits can be repeated in both forms as much as you like. The former one is common for oils and waxes and it means that it sits on top of the skin hindering water to evaporate out of the top layers. It has also anti-bacterial, astringent and toning properties. Liner & Definer: This genius double-ended pencil glides on effortlessly, blends like a dream, then sets for lasting wear and zero smudging. It's loaded with a bunch of good-for-the-skin stuff: it contains almost all of the essential amino acids, has several antioxidant phenolic compounds (including famous antioxidant ferulic acid) and is a rich source of nourishingfatty acids (like stearic and oleic acid). Our DIBS Beauty products are all made in the U.S. and are non-toxic, allergy-tested, and formulated without over 1400 controversial ingredients. You can apply directly to clean skin, use clean fingers or even apply with a brush. Other than that, it is a very effective emollient and occlusive that reduces skin moisture loss so it is quite common in smaller amounts in moisturizers. I love this post!! Were breaking up with beauty rules that dont make sense to streamline your routine. It's less absorbent and less drying than bentonite clay. Shea butter that's considered to be a magic moisturizer and emollient. I'll update the Q&A section and provide any more details that could be helpful in terms of making a decision to snag either the Blush/Bronzer duo or the Status Stick. Well,it used to be referred to as microbeads, as it wasbanned in 2015 in the "Microbead-Free Waters Act" due to the small plastic spheres accumulating in the waters and looking like food to fish. As for hair care, it is a non-volatile silicone meaning that it stays on the hair rather than evaporates from it andsmoothes the hairlike no other thing. Clean means something different to everyone in the US (I mean it's true) but after reviewing the ingredients and reading their certifications, they can be considered clean. The answer is its main fatty acid, called ricinoleic acid (85-95%). Created as a companion to the No Pressure Lip Liner, this non-sticky formula has an ultra-fine pearl shimmer and reflective finish for a glassy, wet look and comfortable wear. A mineral powder used to improve skin feel, increase product slip, give the product some light-reflecting properties, enhance skin adhesion or serve as an anti-caking agent. HA is famous for its crazy water holding capacity as it can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water. She had an instant connection when mutual business colleagues connected her to Jeff Lee, who is well known in the beauty space for making incredible formulations. Pick your favorite from six wearable shades and match it up with a definer (we recommend slightly darker than your natural color) so you can line, define and fill like a pro. It has medium spreadability and gives skin a creamy-dry feel. Especially if we are comparing to other popular beauty brands that have parabens, fragrance, alcohol, and other unnecessary ingredients. With nourishing skincare-level ingredients and just enough shimmer. It's very mild to both skin and eyes and spreads nicely and easily. (We also checkedProspector for sodium hyaluronate versions actually used in cosmetic products and found that the most common molecular weight was 1.5-1.8 million Da that absolutely counts as high molecular weight). But according to a comparative study done in 1995, citric acid has less skin improving magic properties than glycolic or lactic acid. Desert Island Duo : Is it Blush? What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate andcheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. A cosmetic colorant used as a reddish pigment. Thanks. Like What?! It is an age-old ingredient (its over 4,000 years old!) Acne.org has this not fully proven theory that thanks to this, jojoba might be able to "trick" the skin into thinking it has already produced enough sebum, so it might have "skin balancing" properties for oily skin. A bit of a sloppy ingredient name as it covers not one butthree pigments: red, yellow and black iron oxide. But it's not only a simple emollient, it regenerates and soothes the skin,protects it from external factors (such as UV rays or wind) and is also rich in antioxidants (among others vitamin A, E, F, quercetin and epigallocatechin gallate). Lets rewind real quick for anyone who might have missed it. Inside This Episode: How Colleen first got started as a Social Media Manager Colleen's best piece of advice for anyone looking to start their own business A typical day in the, https://chtbl.com/track/9FE6C9/traffic.libsyn.com/secure/getanadaatude/124_-_Colleen_-_Final.mp3. If you wanna become a real HA-and-the-skin expert you can read way more about the topic at hyaluronic acid(including penetration-questions, differences between high and low molecular weight versions and a bunch of references to scientific literature). It is an age-old ingredient (its over 4,000 years old!) So what is so special about it? document.getElementById("comment").setAttribute( "id", "a7bfb37856c3b85fddc0b270b766c564" );document.getElementById("j1b95cd358").setAttribute( "id", "comment" ); Love Love Love!!! Your email address will not be published. Probably themost common silicone of all. So citric acid is an exfoliant, that can - just like other AHAs - gently lift off the dead skin cells of your skin and make it more smooth and fresh. If HA does not tell you anything we have a super detailed, geeky explanation about it here. Our eyeshadow palettes are formulated talc-free which was of major importance to us. It's uniquely excellent at helping the skin with its protective barrier and helping it to stay moisturized. Mother Nature also created wax esters but for a totally different purpose. Citric acid comes from citrus fruits and is an AHA. In cosmetics, its often in products that are supposed to keep your skin matte as it has great oil-absorbing abilities.